The Amalfi Coast has been a popular playground for the rich and famous ever since the days of the Roman Empire. Today, the coastal towns along this beautiful stretch of the Italian peninsula play host to glamourous yachts and honeymooners from all over the world. But is the Amalfi Coast family friendly, or is it just for romantic souls and the super wealthy? The answer is both.
However, given the high price tag of hotels in places like Positano, my recommendation is to use Sorrento as a family home base and journey out from there. Sorrento not only has hotels that suit most budgets, but it is also possible to rent homes in neighboring villages, like Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi. And it has the added advantage of being the easiest departure point for a quick ferry ride across to Capri.
Similarly, I would suggest renting a car so that you can tour the Amalfi Coast at your own leisure. That way you don’t have to follow the schedule of a tour bus. Or, if you have the funds, you can hire your own luxury van or limousine, with a guide. If you do rent a car, choose one that is as small as possible for your group size. The coastal road can be extremely narrow, and there are often steep cliffs that are not ideal for those faint of heart. Parking is also tricky to find; making smaller vehicles much more ideal.
Amalfi & the Museo della Carta
Of the family friendly towns we visited along the Amalfi Coast; Amalfi was the one that my kids enjoyed the most. Not only did it have, in their opinion, the best gelato, but it also offered some truly unique experiences. This included the Museum of Paper.
Housed in a small 13th century paper mill, the Museo della Carta does a great job of outlining how, back in the day, Amalfi came to be Italy’s foremost paper producer. There are plenty of restored artifacts to observe during the detailed English-speaking tour. And walking through the old mill is just straight up cool. However, the real highlight is the ability for guests to make their own paper to take home. Although, thankfully, today’s process no longer requires the use of urine from generous townsfolk!
I also want to give a shout out to the Amalfi Musical Show that we saw in Amalfi. Unfortunately, performances appear to cease after 2019 (presumably due to COVID). However, fingers crossed, the show will resume once the pandemic ends. In which case, I can’t stress enough what an incredible experience it was for my family. The show gave my kids an up-close-and-personal musical experience, thanks to its location inside a small cavern room within a 1000-year-old armory. It also did a fantastic job of providing an overview of Amalfi’s tumultuous history. Even when we weren’t reading the subtitles, the story was easy to follow. Until its return, I am happy to report that the Amalfi Coast Music & Arts Festival is coming back this summer. This means there should be plenty of other artistic performances for tourists to choose from.
Positano
Chances are you’ve already seen pictures of Italy’s picturesque Positano over the years. It’s sheer cliffs, dotted with Mediterranean structures, are easy to recognize in travel magazines. However, when it comes to kids, the old stone alleyways, and staircases, that cover the entire town, are nothing short of fascinating. If you have an adventurous child, who doesn’t mind climbing up and down lots of stairs, there are endless exploring opportunities. There are also plenty of gelato and souvenir shops to keep them happy.
The main beach is Positano Spiaggia. It offers breathtaking views of the town. However, it is very expensive to rent sunbeds. A better bet is Fornillo Beach which, a few minutes away, has a large public section. Just bring your own chairs, if you can, as the beach is pebbly.
For us, Positano was one of our big Amalfi Coast dinner splurges. Tucked away in the heart of Positano, off Via dei Mulini, is a fantastic restaurant called Al Palazzo. What makes it unique is not just the divine food, but also the shaded garden setting. I had eaten there several years earlier, so I knew the quality of their food and service. However, on this trip, I was delighted to discover that they are equally hospitable toward children, as they are toward couples. Let’s face it, this is not always the case with higher-end restaurants.
Beaches
Aside from Positano, there are many family friendly beaches along the Amalfi Coast. Some require a steep climb down from where you park, but they are well worth it. Especially the ones with onsite dining options that allow you to make a day of it. I can personally recommend seeking out smaller, quieter, beaches that locals favor. For instance, we enjoyed Marina di Praia which is located in Pariano – about halfway between Positano and Amalfi. We also really liked Cala di Puolo, near to Sorrento.
Happy Travels!
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Thanks for letting me know Tomasz. I’ll take a look and see if I can optimize it a bit better. Is it the pictures, or formatting in general?
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Absolutely!